Building the 1913 Model T Ford Roadster Scale Model Kit by Revell

Building the 1913 Model T Ford Roadster Scale Model Kit by Revell

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Ford factory c1913.

Greetings ~

I've had this kit for a couple of years. I've been building other kits. I have plenty of them. I decided that the time was right to get this one done. It's a 1913 Model T Ford roadster. I've opened the box and see that the entire kit is molded in gray except for the brass pieces. So, I'll have to paint the body and other parts.

This kit is made by Revell of Germany. I will admit, the Revell kits are very nice. The instructions are nice also. The only decals with this kit are of pin striping.

This kit is listed on eBay for $57.00. And, it sold for that price. Personally, I would not pay any more than $30 for it. It's not worth any more.

It looks like it will be fun to build. So, let's get started!

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Hello! I'm Mr. Ed

Blog Created: 3-29-2025

Last Updated: 4-9-2025

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Opening the Box ~

Opening the Box ~

I see that all parts but the tires are molded in gray.

There are clear parts for the windshield and light lenses.

The tires are actually rubber and not plastic. They are white which goes with the period.

Spray Painting and Brush Painting the Parts ~

Spray Painting and Brush Painting the Parts ~

There are two colors for the spray painting process. French Blue # 2915 and Gloss Black # 1947. These are Testors brand paints.

A Crazy Side Note ~

A Crazy Side Note ~

I bought the French Blue around 30-years ago. The price t hen was $2.75.

The Gloss Black spray paint I bought around 20-years ago at $5.49. Today, the Testors spray paints are selling for over $10. This is how much they have gone up in price since.

The running boards are spray painted Gloss Black.

The three main colors of brush paint are also Testors brand. Flat Black # 1149. Gloss Black # 1147 and Gold # 1144.

While the spray paint dries, I used the flat black tp paint the floor board.

The Flat Black is also used for the top parts and others.

Gold is used on the headlight housings, other coach lights and the windshield frame.

My Testors paint cabinet is coming in handy.

Now, it's back to the spray booth. I sprayed all the body parts blue.

Then I painted the radiator gold. On the original cars, these parts were brass. However, all I have is gold and copper. The instructions, for some reason, say to paint these parts gold. Copper would look too dull anyway.

Now I'm going to paint the interior. I want the seat to be leather. I bought these Monogram paints way back in 1984. I know because I still have the receipt. I know! Weird!

I don't know if they still make these. But they are great! The colors are Hardened Leather, #8184 (MC-27) and Red Leather #8185 (MC29). As long as the can is sealed, they will last forever.

Going Down Memory Lane For A Moment ~

Back in the 1980s, I shopped at Kiddle's Hobby Shop in Barberton, Ohio. They had all the vintage kits and tons of supplies. I really enjoyed that place. I bought these paints there. Sadly, Gary Kiddle died in the early 2000s and the shop is now gone.

I'm painting the seat Hardened Leather. I opened the paint can and found the paint in perfect condition. But I really had to stir it up.

The seat and sides are done.

Once I'm done, I have to make sure that the paint can is sealed really well. That's how I've kept these paints all these years.

Now I open and stir the Red Leather. I am going to use this color as wood on the firewall.

I also used this color on the wooden steering wheel.

Now I go back to the flat black for some of the undercarriage parts.

The main engine pieces are also painted flat black. Ford engines weren't big on colors.

The underside of the floorboard plus the seat support are painted flat black.

So are the headlight brackets.

The black paint on the running boards is dry.

The engine head is painted silver.

The work table.

The Painting is done.

CONSTRUCTION BEGINS ~

CONSTRUCTION BEGINS ~

I start with the engine.

I always use Testors plastic model glue. I have used it since my first model build in 1957.

The two engine halves are glued together plus the head is glued on. Plus, I glued on the water pump.

The two motor mounts are glued to the transmission.

When I glued the front axle to the radiator, I put a small wedge under it to hold it in position for the glue to dry.

The steering box is glued in place.

The oil pan is glued to the engine.

Radiator is glued into housing.

I started assembling the body.

Body is stood up for the glue to dry.

The muffler is glued together.

The rear axle pumpkin is glued together.

The rear axle and it's spring.

NOTE:

NOTE:

It's best to use small wire cutters to cut the parts from the parts trees.

NOTE:

In most model kits, the time for a decal to loosen is around 20 to 45-seconds. For the decals in this kit to come loose is more like 1 to 3-minutes. If you take them out any sooner, they may break apart. ALSO: it's best to use warm water. Not hot and not cold.

The first decal goes on. It's the brass Ford emblem on the radiator.

The front axle is glued in place.

Next, the headlight brackets go on.

The body is assembled.

The seat brace is glued into the body shell.

The rear axle is assembled.

The cowl is glued together.

Assembling the top.

The rear window glass is in.

The top is glued together.

The headlights are glued together.

This is glued.

The clear lenses are glued into the headlights.

Decals are applied to the driver's side of the body.

Then the passenger's side.

The trunk lid gets one too.

The steering wheel is glued to the inner spoke.

The control mount is glued to the steering column.

The rubber tires are attached to the wheels. These just push in and no glue is needed.

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I AM BUILDING THIS KIT RIGHT NOW ~

I AM BUILDING THIS KIT RIGHT NOW ~

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